Chapter 1: Introduction to Lake Victoria's Crisis

Lake Victoria is home to approximately forty million people who rely on its fish for sustenance. However, this crucial ecosystem is under siege from pollution, invasive species, overfishing, climate change, and the rapid rise of fish farming. The lake is the largest tropical lake globally and is bordered by Kenya, Uganda, and Tanzania.

I reside in Uganda, not far from the northern shores of Lake Victoria. In the past, I frequently visited these shores during the warm months of January and July. A decade ago, local fishermen still used traditional canoes and nets to catch tilapia, silver fish, catfish, and the more elusive lung fish, staples in regional cuisine.

Historically, the fishing community was divided into two groups: local fishers with small boats operating close to the shoreline, and small-scale commercial fishermen using motorboats to venture further into the lake. Both practices were sustainable, as fishermen adhered to the natural breeding cycles of the fish, preventing overfishing. I fondly recall the tranquility of the lake, the scent of the water, and evenings spent swimming at Kibanga Landing Site, where fishermen cast their nets at sunset.

However, the idyllic sight of fishermen in clear waters has been replaced by a disturbing scene of fish farming cages floating on blue drums, equipped with surveillance cameras to deter intruders.

I used to enjoy chatting with local fishermen and fisherwomen, who would treat us to akabeero, a dish made from tilapia and matooke (banana), before we joined them on their fishing expeditions. Now, this vital industry faces existential threats from corporate greed, where large companies exploit the lake's resources with factory-farming techniques.

This unchecked exploitation of Lake Victoria has persisted for over fifty years, culminating in what is known as the African perch disaster. The introduction of the Nile perch in the 1960s aimed to boost the fishing industry but disrupted the lake's ecological balance. The introduction of this predator led to a dramatic decline in smaller fish populations, with the fishing industry’s catch increasing tenfold over the past five decades.

The Nile perch's population exploded in the 1980s, leading to a significant economic windfall for the fishery while simultaneously decimating its endemic fish species. By the early 1990s, the once-diverse fishery relied on just three species: the Nile perch, Nile tilapia, and the smaller R. argentea. This lucrative market, while economically beneficial, has also led to increased species loss and a stark disparity in wealth distribution. The majority of Nile perch caught are exported, making them unaffordable for the local population, while also contributing to unsustainable food miles.

Traditional fishing practices that supported local food security have been supplanted by industrial fishing for export, benefiting foreign companies disproportionately. This shift has led to the erosion of cultural heritage and traditional fishing skills, as artisanal fishermen have vanished, along with the craftsmen who once made fishing gear.

Ironically, the increased demand and pollution have begun to threaten the Nile perch itself.

Recently, another alarming trend has emerged: the rapid expansion of fish farming, which poses a new risk to Lake Victoria's delicate ecosystem.

Tilapia, due to their adaptability in diet, are easy to farm, leading to a surge in fish farming operations. Companies like Nairobi-based Victory Farms, along with numerous others, have proliferated in the region. A report by the Lattice Aquaculture Trust (LAT) identified 58 commercial operators across Uganda, Kenya, and Tanzania. In 2022, satellite imagery revealed over 8,000 fish cages, primarily in Kenya and Uganda, transforming the once-pristine waters into industrial farming sites.

The expansion of these fish farms has also resulted in armed security preventing local fishermen from accessing their traditional fishing areas, now designated as commercial farms.

Global concern about the repercussions of industrial fish farming is growing. The rapid consolidation of aquaculture has raised critical questions regarding its environmental and social impacts, including ecosystem destruction and human rights violations. The use of antibiotics and pesticides in fish farming contaminates surrounding waters, leading to the creation of dead zones in the ecosystem.

The remarkable growth of fish farming in Lake Victoria has coincided with recent legal changes at the national level. To promote sustainable practices, the European Union and East African Community have initiated the "EU-EAC True Fish Farming Story in Lake Victoria Basin" project, with a budget exceeding 10 million euros. However, this financial backing risks further destruction of Lake Victoria and additional harm to already vulnerable local communities.

It is imperative that we raise awareness and take action to protect our natural resources. Lakes and oceans are global commons that should be preserved for future generations. The responsibility to safeguard these treasures is a challenge we must embrace, for without such action, our future remains uncertain.

This article was penned by Edward Mukiibi, President of Slow Food. A Ugandan agronomist and educator, Mukiibi has dedicated his life to sustainability and food security, culminating in his role as the leader of the global Slow Food movement.

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