Traveling in Cyprus

Cyprus boasts two international airports in the southern part of the island, both conveniently located near the coastline. The larger airport is in Larnaca, while a smaller one serving tourists is situated in Paphos, in the southwest. Nicosia also has an airport, but it has ceased commercial operations and is now the base for UN peacekeeping forces.

We landed at Paphos Airport on an early morning flight, maximizing our first day. After collecting our rental car, our primary mode of transport for the next nine days, I faced the challenge of driving on the left side of the road—a skill I had previously practiced in Australia. However, I still found myself momentarily bewildered, inadvertently turning onto the wrong side of the road until a friendly truck driver signaled me to correct my mistake.

To help identify tourists, rental cars in Cyprus sport red license plates. Once I navigated the initial confusion, we hit the highway, heading first to the Kourion archaeological site.

The Kourion archaeological site was a significant ancient Greek city-state along the southwestern coast of Cyprus. Founded in the twelfth century BCE by Greek settlers from Argos, Kourion has a rich history. The city faced destruction from five significant earthquakes in the seventeenth century but was rebuilt. The Acropolis of Kourion, located 13 km west of Limassol, is perched atop a 100-meter-high limestone promontory along the Episkopi Bay coast.

Visiting the archaeological park was an excellent way to start our sunny day. Afterward, we drove an hour to enjoy our first lunch on the beach in Larnaca. Finikoudes Beach, a popular stretch of coastline, was relatively quiet in early March, though the afternoon promenade had more activity than other resort towns.

Later, we checked into our first accommodation in Ayia Napa, one of Cyprus's most popular resort areas. Booking was straightforward as only a few hotels were open during the offseason, allowing us to secure a favorable rate that included half-board—a necessity since many dining establishments were closed.

The following day marked our first serious hike. With the help of a mobile app indicating tourist trails, we embarked on the European Trail 4 (E4) along the coast from Ayia Napa to Cavo Greco National Park, where we visited the Blue Lagoon.

Our hike concluded at Konnos Beach after covering over 20 kilometers. Fortunately, a bus service back to Ayia Napa saved us from a long return trip. Although we were exhausted, the breathtaking landscapes we encountered made the effort worthwhile, and the pleasant 20-degree weather filled us with energy.

Our next destination was Fig Tree Beach, recommended by a Cypriot colleague from my Nicosia project work as the most beautiful beach on the island. Despite it being a Sunday and many locals enjoying picnics, the beach was relatively uncrowded. While I hesitated to swim due to the cold water, some locals braved the chilly sea.

After a leisurely stroll along the shore, we returned to Ayia Napa to explore the coastline, including the renowned Nissi Beach, bustling with locals enjoying their Sunday.

The following day, we departed Ayia Napa for Nicosia. With some time to spare before check-in at our accommodation, we decided to visit the Machairas Monastery nestled deep in the mountains.

Navigating the narrow, winding roads to the 900-meter-high monastery was an adventure in itself. Founded in the late 12th century, this historical monastery dedicated to the Virgin Mary remains active with monks living on-site.

Upon arrival, we were greeted by open doors and no entrance fee. The spiritual energy within the monastery was palpable, especially as we arrived just in time for the midday prayer. One of the monks graciously invited us to participate in the ceremony, which began with singing in a serene atmosphere. For those interested in learning more about this special place, I recommend a documentary exploring its history and the lives of its monks.

After leaving the monastery, we made our way to Nicosia, where our accommodation was in the modern downtown area. I had previously found a well-designed parking lot for the night, as exploring Nicosia is best done on foot.

Nicosia stands as the last divided capital in the world, a situation rooted in geopolitical history that I won’t delve into. It’s peculiar to witness a capital city with border crossings and checkpoints.

In the downtown area, we discovered various restaurants and cafes. As the administrative center of Cyprus, Nicosia houses government buildings and corporate headquarters. We only spent one night in the city, preferring to explore nature-oriented destinations.

The next morning, we set off towards our final accommodation in Paphos. With ample time to spare, we opted for a scenic route through the Troodos Mountain range instead of the highway, aiming for the highest point.

We stopped at the Amiantos Mine View Point, offering stunning views of Europe’s largest asbestos mine, which resembled a deserted planet.

Reaching the parking area below Mount Olympus, we took a short hike to the summit, where remnants of snow lingered, indicating the site wasn't suitable for skiing, as shown by the empty ski lift.

To visit key attractions in the area, we stopped at the Caledonian Waterfalls tourist trail on our descent. After a half-hour hike, we were rewarded with a beautiful waterfall, proving that Cyprus is not just rocky terrain but also features dense forests and streams—a hiker's paradise. We enjoyed a spontaneous afternoon hike on the Psilo Dentro trail.

As afternoon waned, we headed to Paphos, where we settled into a comfortable apartment. Paphos, a city on Cyprus’s southwest coast, has been inhabited since Neolithic times and is home to sites related to the cult of the goddess Aphrodite.

In the early evening, we rushed to the seaside to catch the sunset, a popular way for locals and tourists to unwind after a day of exploring.

Having previously spent our honeymoon in Paphos, we sought out less-visited spots. Our destination was Paradise Beach on the western side of the island. After passing through Polis and enjoying lunch at the beachfront Santa Barbara Resto & Beach Bar, the only open establishment in the area, we were only a short drive from our destination.

True to its name, Paradise Beach was exquisite, and we found ourselves alone on the entire stretch. While it likely draws crowds during peak season, we enjoyed the tranquility of the beach.

On our way back, we stopped at the famous shipwrecks near Paphos, where tourists gathered to watch the stunning sunset.

The EDRO III shipwreck, which ran aground in stormy seas in December 2011, remains stranded close to the shore, providing an interesting and thrilling sight.

On our final full day, we decided to hike again to make the most of the pleasant weather. Our goal was the Akamas National Park. After parking at the Aphrodite Nature Trail lot, we first visited the popular Baths of Aphrodite, where the goddess is said to have bathed.

We then embarked on a 20-kilometer hike along the Aphrodite trail, with breathtaking views of the coastline. The terrain was manageable, although those venturing into the higher areas away from the shore should wear appropriate footwear.

This area also features a bay called Blue Lagoon, similar to one on the opposite end of the island. Our ultimate destination was the secluded Fontana Amorosa beach, where we were turned back by a large herd of goats.

The return journey followed the same scenic path, with the beautiful weather and stunning coastlines providing continued enjoyment.

Conclusion

Our nine days in Cyprus were filled with unforgettable moments. With a preference for nature-oriented settings, we spent much of our time outdoors, enjoying the fresh air, sunshine, and the peaceful, tourist-free atmosphere of the offseason.

I wholeheartedly recommend Cyprus to everyone—whether you love hiking, exploring historical sites, or simply relaxing on beautiful beaches.

Thank you for reading my travel story.

If you found this travelogue enjoyable, consider exploring my other travel articles, which offer similar tones and captivating photographs.

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I'm Jozsef Kovacs, writing about leadership, project management, and travel. Click here if you'd like to be notified of my publications.